American Salon 0512 : Page 55

FROM TOP: An open floor plan with few interior walls gives the salon an airy feeling; color from Goldwell, Joico and Organic Color Systems lines the shelves of the color lab. Desert Oasis FLOOR PLAN Salon 119 and Spa in Palm Springs, CA, provides a haven for locals and tourists alike. Until last year, Salon 119 and Spa occupied the same location in Palm Springs, CA, it had since it opened 11 years ago. Although the business had a healthy following among the locals, manager Lori McGlynn says the neighborhood wasn’t attracting the lucrative tourist crowd, so in June of last year, Salon 119 and Spa moved to a new 2,650-square-foot space on trendy Palm Canyon Drive. “It’s like a whole new world for us,” McGlynn says. The location is in the heart of the downtown shopping district, in close proximity to boutiques, restaurants and other businesses that attract seasonal foot traffic. She estimates that Salon 119 and Spa’s clientele went from about 10 percent walk-ins to about 30 percent, a change that has grown the staff as well, from 10 to 14. > May 2012 American Salon 55

In Studio

American Salon staff

floor plan Desert Oasis Salon 119 and Spa in Palm Springs, CA, provides a haven for locals and tourists alike. Until last year, Salon 119 and Spa occupied the same location in Palm Springs, CA, it had since it opened 11 years ago. Although the business had a healthy following among the locals, manager Lori McGlynn says the neighborhood wasn’t attracting the lucrative tourist crowd, so in June of last year, Salon 119 and Spa moved to a new 2,650-square-foot space on trendy Palm Canyon Drive. “It’s like a whole new world for us,” McGlynn says. The location is in the heart of the downtown shopping district, in close proximity to boutiques, restaurants and other businesses that attract seasonal foot traffic. She estimates that Salon 119 and Spa’s clientele went from about 10 percent walk-ins to about 30 percent, a change that has grown the staff as well, from 10 to 14. > The new space makes the dramatic desert landscape part of the experience, with oversized windows that look out on the San Jacinto Mountains. The sand-colored tile and earth-toned walls are offset by maroon and black accents. Custom-built styling stations are equipped with Belvedere Cleopatra chairs. A glass-walled color lab was also custom-designed, and serves as a focal point of the salon. Surprising elements, like the zebra-striped pillows in the pedicure lounge, keep the mood light. “The most common comment we hear is how welcoming the space is from the minute clients walk through the door,” says salon owner Michele Gerber. The spa, owned by Nikki Roman, has its own space on the second floor. Guests are greeted at the top of the stairs by a waterfall outside a waiting area that Roman has dubbed the Siren Lounge. Extra soundproofing between the floors ensures a tranquil spa atmosphere apart from the hustle-bustle of the salon. There are four treatment rooms for skincare and massage, two of which are large enough for couples’ services. “I always imagined myself becoming a spa owner and designing the whole thing,” Roman says. “To see and work in it and hear all of the great responses from clients, both new and old, is so rewarding.” ✂ —Karen Ford floor plan Touch of Class The Mastery by Esani in Alpharetta, GA, is the brainchild of a beauty pro, an Ivy League grad and a doctor of psychology. There’s an impressive pedigree behind The Mastery by Esani, a new beauty academy and salon in Alpharetta, GA. Co-owner Lucie Doughty is former head of color at Sassoon’s Santa Monica, CA, academy and creator of the color curriculum for Paul Mitchell Schools; co-owner Arlene Lyons holds an Ivy League MBA degree; and their designer, Dr. Leon Alexander of The Eurisko Collection, boasts a Ph.D. in behavioral psychology. The program, an advanced course for beauty school grads, includes seven weeks of classroom instruction, then seven weeks of mentored practice in the academy’s salon. On the salon floor, 18 stations equipped with Takara Belmont Libra chairs are grouped in pods of two or three, in fixed positions under carefully designed overhead lighting. “Lighting is such a focal point, especially in retail,” Alexander says. Displays in the Take Home Store, as the retail area is called, use under-shelf illumination, with transparent backs that allow a view into the dynamic activity of the salon. Lighting was also a carefully planned element of the shampoo area, called the Reluxe Lounge. Doughty worked with massage therapists to design The Mastery’s signature five-point shampoo and massage treatment. A backlit backsplash provides illumination for the therapist without directing harsh light into clients’ eyes. Five client stations surround the curved color bar, with the formulation area located behind it. The bright poppy color of the back wall is energizing, according to Alexander. “If you’re a customer who currently doesn’t have color, you might want to try it because it looks like a cool place to hang out,” he says. Technology plays a huge part in the experience. There is a sophisticated master A/V control center that feeds eight strategically located flat-screen TVs. This system enables micro-control of the environment: soothing rain forest imagery and relaxing music in the Reluxe Lounge and energetic fashion images on the salon floor. Use of iPads provides roving access to client data, everything from booking information to beverage preferences and color formulations. Small class sizes—14 students maximum—dictated the need for a single classroom, which is equipped with a 95-inch Promethean interactive whiteboard flanked by 50-inch flat-screen TVs. The system can display video from the control room or stream content from the Internet or satellite while electronically capturing pen strokes on the whiteboard, giving presenters the ability to e-mail a complete presentation with a single click. ✂ —Karen Ford Workshop Wave Theory Working with curly hair can seem daunting for stylists who don’t have experience and training, but Ouidad Creative Director Morgan Willhite decodes the mystery with six Curl Commandments that explain everything from determining wave patterns to how to care for and style textured hair. “Having a system like the Curl Commandments is extremely beneficial,” Willhite says. “Following the commandments will refresh your mind, giving you the tools you need to visualize your approach and take the correct steps to assure that your curly clients’ hair is cut, conditioned and styled to perfection.” 1 Indentifying Curl Patterns According to Willhite, there are four main types of curl patterns: loose and wavy (soft, less-defined waves approximately 2 inches wide that become curlier with length); curly (classic curls approximately 1 to 1½ inches wide with lots of volume); tight curly (a mixture of 1 inch curls throughout the hair); and kinky (ringlets that are Z-shaped when hair is stretched). 2 Determining Texture Willhite identifies three of the most common curl textures: fine (mostly found on people with tight or kinky curls); medium (usually found on people with loose, curly and tight curls); and coarse (strands are thicker in diameter and are mostly found on hair with loose curls). 3 Shampooing “It isn’t necessary to shampoo curly hair daily,” Willhite says. “The client’s curl pattern should dictate how often she should shampoo.” For clients with loose waves, Willhite advises washing hair two to three times a week; those with tight curls should also only shampoo one to two times a week; and kinky-curled girls should wash only one time per week. 4 Conditioning Willhite stresses that it’s important for curly-haired clients not to skip the conditioning step when washing their hair. “Conditioning provides protection against heat-styling tools, sun damage and product buildup,” she says. Her tip to share with clients: “Leave 25 percent of the conditioner on the ends of the hair for extra protection and detangling.” 5 Leave-in Conditioners On the days clients do not shampoo, Willhite recommends rinsing the hair with warm water and detangling with a leave-in conditioner. “Leave-in conditioners add moisture and vitamins to wet or dry curls and also fight frizz,” she says. 6Styling Tips “Curly hair should never be brushed,” Willhite says. “Brushes can tear or stretch fragile strands and on dry hair, brushing will separate and diffuse the curls, creating frizz.” Willhite also warns against over-handling curly hair, as touching curls as they dry disturbs the natural pattern and creates unwanted volume and flyaways. ✂ —Lotus Abrams Brighten Up Keratin Complex’s new lightening system, It’s a Blonde Thing, makes going blonde easier and less damaging, thanks to a nourishing natural keratin protein and panthenol complex. Delivering up to seven levels of lift, the product can be used with the system’s 10-volume, 20-volume, 30-volume and 40-volume developers, which are fortified with keratin to reduce porosity and protect the hair shaft, silk protein to restore moisture and improve shine, and collagen to leave locks silky. keratincomplex.com —M.R. Warming trend Haircolor is warming up for spring and summer, according to Tracey Cunningham, celebrity colorist and Redken creative consultant for color. Cunningham says Minka Kelly’s golden brown shade is popular with her clients, as is Kate Bosworth’s platinum blonde hue. As far as redheads go, Cunningham says Bryce Dallas Howard’s look is the most-requested by women seeking to go with the fiery color. “She’s become such an ‘it girl’ since her role in The Help (2011),” Cunningham says. “Her deep red color is definitely going to be a trend for spring and summer 2012.” Cunningham has been using Redken’s new ammonia-free Chromatics permanent color on her clients to create multidimensional results and keep their hair conditioned and healthy during the hot summer days. Redken launched eight new shades for even more creative possibilities this month. For the Chromatics formulas for all three celebs, visit blog .americansalonmag.com. —L.A. High Contrast Creativity gets a major boost with Scruples’ new 3 Dimensional Customized Gel Colour System, which creates multidimensional hues in a flash while supplying superior gray coverage. The line boasts a High Definition Custom Mixing Gel Colour System featuring 10 pure-base shades that allow beauty pros to create more than 200 permanent and demipermanent hues, as well as the Blazing Highlights Toner Infused Gel Colour System that lifts up to seven levels on natural or color-treated hair and deposits permanent haircolor in a single process. There’s also a Shadow Lowlights Filler Infused Gel Colour System with seven hues that can be mixed to create 18 lowlight shades to achieve a three-dimensional color service. Each gel color contains the proper filler, eliminating the need for re-pigmentation and enabling colorists to achieve expert results in a single step. “With Scruples’ 3 Dimensional Customized Gel Colour System, saving time, making more money and stretching artistic freedom are at beauty pros’ fingertips,” says Tracy Liguori, co-president of marketing and advertising. scrupleshaircare.com —K.D. Cool Factor Matrix’s new fashion-forward Metallic Pearls Socolor and Color Sync shades deliver soft cool beige tones with a hint of violet and an edgy iridescent finish. The new collection features three Socolor hues (7P Dark Blonde Pearl, 9P Light Blonde Pearl and 11P Extra Light Blonde Plus Pearl) and two Color Sync shades (8P Medium Blonde Pearl and 10P Extra Light Blonde Pearl). The launch also includes a new technique called Pearl Drop that provides shimmering, multidimensional results. matrix.com —L.A. Neutral TerritoryWhen it comes to nails this season, less is more. Pretty hues ranging from gray and white to pale pink and soft beige made a strong showing on the spring catwalks of Derek Lam, Giorgio Armani and Christopher Kane, to name a few. To recreate the flattering manicure of the moment on clients, get your hands on Zoya Dove, Barre My Soul from the New York City Ballet by OPI collection or CND Studio White. cnd.com; opi.com; zoya.com —K.D. Sole Safari Straight from Africa, the Kanshi Welcoming Foot Cleansing Ritual delivers an all-natural renewing and aromatic luxury treatment just in time for flip-flop weather. The service begins with a re-energizing spritz of the Instantly Refreshing Foot Spray, infused with three types of mint, horse chestnut and lemon myrtle, followed by exfoliation with the tropical-scented Salted Mango or Salted Coconut Hand and Body Scrub. Next, feet are coated with the deeply softening Triple Mint Hydrating Foot Masque and wrapped in plastic to soften calluses and rough skin. The masque is then removed using warm towels and the service concludes with a cooling and soothing calf and foot massage using Triple Mint Nourishing Foot Cream. kanshibeauty.com —M.R. Check Mate “Spring is the perfect time to take your nails to the edge,” says CND founder and all-around fashionista Jan Arnold. She should know; Arnold was backstage at Nicole Miller’s spring 2012 show in New York City when CND nail guru Wanda Ruiz rocked it with the Mic Check Mani. To get the look, Ruiz used two tones: CND Colours in Raspberry Parfait and Inkwell. The result is a checkered pattern with just a touch of rock ’n’ roll psychedelic attitude. —K.D. Smooth Move Enhance a luxury pedicure service with the new Sole handheld callus remover from Ansr. Made from medical-grade materials, the cordless, rechargeable beauty tool utilizes a powerful motor and polishing plate to painlessly remove calluses and smooth dry, cracked skin on the feet in a matter of minutes. The metal file can be easily sanitized for professional use. ansr.com —L.A. Face Value Ray Banners Help clients enjoy a safe summer by recommending skin-protecting products. With summer quickly approaching, your clients are anxiously awaiting long days in the sunshine, but the increased exposure to UV rays and free radicals puts their skin at a higher risk of hyperpigmentation, aging and melanoma. “Every change of season, you should adjust your clients’ regimen, catering to their specific needs to help them build their protective routine,” says Annet King, Dermalogica’s director of global education. “For sensitive skin, suggest a physical sunscreen (containing titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) that just sits on the surface of the skin, protecting against UVA and UVB rays. For everyone else, a chemical sunscreen (containing avobenzone, octocrylene and benzophenone), which absorbs and breaks down UV rays, will do just fine.” King stresses that it’s important to remind clients that they should be using a minimum SPF 30 sunscreen, and to reapply it every two hours. Many new sunscreens go a step beyond merely shielding the skin from the sun’s harmful rays. Dermalogica’s revamped Solar Defense Booster SPF 50 features an innovative technology that releases vitamins C and E into the skin as soon as it’s exposed to UV rays to stimulate collagen production and moisturize. The rich emollients and antioxidants in Jurlique’s new Purely Sun-Defying Moisturizer with SPF 15 Sunscreen combine to protect against harmful exposure and relieve the feeling of tight facial skin. Post-exposure care is also important. One to try is Shea Terra Organics Kigelia Licorice After-Sun Face Crème, which includes licorice root to lighten freckles and sun spots. dermalogica.com; jurlique .com; sheaterraorganics.com —M.R. Daylight Savings Alleviate your clients’ summer hair woes by recommending products that guard against a barrage of environmental factors. As if the scorch of blow-dryers and styling tools doesn’t do enough damage to clients’ hair, the summer sunshine, salt water, chlorine and humidity subjects strands to a serious beating. To help clients maintain their hair’s healthy glow, Lori Zabel, a Redken Platform Artist at Dop Dop Salon in New York City, says you should equip them with products that protect against UV damage and dehydration. “The sun is the biggest culprit of summer hair abuse because people forget that sunscreen for hair is just as important as it is for skin,” Zabel says. Fortunately, products like Redken’s Color Extend Sun line and Paul Mitchell’s new limited-edition Sun Recovery trio help protect against sun damage. “Our customers’ active lifestyles demand a haircare regimen that keeps hair healthy while they’re soaking up the warmth of the sun, so we developed the new SolarVeil complex using sunflower seed extract, two powerful UV absorbers, and conditioners that prevent and repair structural damage,” says Kristin Firrell, vice president of product development at John Paul Mitchell Systems. Beyond sunscreen, it’s also important to recommend that clients use frizz-fighting leave-ins during the summer to tackle humidity, as well as treatments that lock in moisture. “Aveda Sun Care After-Sun Hair Masque contains morikue protein that restores hair weakened by the effects of sun and chlorine exposure that can be difficult to reverse if left untreated,” says Marianne Knutson, vice president of global marketing for Aveda. No matter what summer hair challenges your clients are facing, there is a formula designed to meet their needs. Here’s a look at some must-have problem-solvers. ✂ —Megan Rupp 1. Paul Mitchell Sun Recovery Hydrating Shampoo The lingering tropical scent isn’t the only thing your clients will love about this sulfate-free protector. The product helps quench parched locks and contains the SolarVeil complex to guard against UV damage. paulmitchell.com 2. Bosley Professional Strength Healthy Hair Scalp Protect Fortified with a powerful blend of marine, plant and biogenic extracts that helps prevent sunburnt scalps, this weightless formula also strengthens and thickens strands. bosleypro.com 3. Keratin Complex Straight Day Ideal for taming frizz and unruly flyways, this triple-action smoothing spray utilizes keratin plus an anti-humectant to lock moisture in while blocking out humidity and UV rays. keratincomplex.com 4. Redken Color Extend Sun After-Sun Shampoo This gentle formula removes salt and chlorine residue and features the exclusive Hydra-Shield complex with Soplexyl to banish UVA and UVB damage. redken.com 5. Moroccanoil Frizz Control Formulated with argan oil to banish frizz, static and flyaways, this climate-controlling mist helps keep any summer ’do looking good. moroccanoil.com 6. Keune Care Line Sun Sublime Oil Enriched with olive-derived squalane oil, this water-resistant SPF 8 shield protects the hair and scalp from the sun while also moisturizing strands. keune.com 7. Aveda Sun Care After-Sun Hair Masque This treatment’s unique blend of shea butter, tamanu, coconut and palm oils restores moisture to sun-stressed hair; green tea extract, sunflower seed oil and vitamin E ward off free radicals; and wintergreen and cinnamon bark act as natural UVA and UVB inhibitors. aveda.com 8. Number Four Super Comb Prep & Protect Enhanced with soy proteins and the Liquid Purity complex—containing lemongrass, gooseberry, oatmeal and goldenseal—this sulfate-free detangler protects against UV damage and gently removes buildup. number4hair.com Staying Power Teach clients about the importance of caring for their color-treated hair after they leave the salon with these expert tips and product recommendations. —Jolene Turner masks “I recommend that clients use a mask for color-treated hair before coming in for a color treatment so that the hair is in good condition to start with, and the color can be applied more evenly,” says Kien Hoang, Oribe Hair Care educator and owner of Umbrella Salon in San Jose, CA. “After color, they should use the mask to maintain vibrancy and longevity.” For an indulgent salon-style treatment at home, Hoang suggests clients heat two wet towels in the microwave and then “steam” the hair that has been treated with a mask. Once the towels have cooled, he advises rinsing the mask out with cold water to close the hair shaft. L’Oréal Professionnel Série Expert Vitamino Color Gel Masque, lorealprofessionnel.com; ColorProof DeepQuench Moisture Masque, colorproof.com; Farouk Systems CHI Ionic Color Protector System Leave-in Treatment Masque, farouk.com; Oribe Hair Care Masque for Beautiful Color, oribe.com shampoos “I always explain to clients that they have invested money into their beautiful color service; the purchase of a color protection shampoo is a protection of that investment,” says Amie Breckenridge Goltz, Scruples artistic director. Additionally, clients who use it find that not only does their color last longer but their hair is also healthier.” Goltz says she typically offers a salon guarantee of the color service with the purchase of a color protection shampoo. Scruples Pearlscriptives Renewal Color Retention Shampoo, scrupleshaircare.com; TIGI Colour Combat Colour Goddess Shampoo, tigihaircare.com; Wella Professionals Brilliance Shampoo, wella.com; Leonor Greyl Bain Vitalisant B, leonorgreyl-usa.com leave-ins “I never let a red or copper leave my salon without a color protection leave-in product,” says Aloxxi Creative Team Member Gina Karpenko, adding that these products are like having insurance for haircolor. “Haircolor tends to fade because of two main reasons: not enough protein and an open cuticle layer. If your cuticle is open, you leave room to lose precious color molecules every time you wet your hair. Leave-in conditioners help combat these problems by fortifying the hair with strengthening proteins and rich emollients to hydrate strands and smooth the cuticle.”

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