American Salon 0512 : Page 64
Workshop Wave Theory Working with curly hair can seem daunting for stylists who don’t have experience and training, but Ouidad Creative Director Morgan Willhite decodes the mystery with six Curl Commandments that explain everything from determining wave patterns to how to care for and style textured hair. “Having a system like the Curl Commandments is extremely beneficial,” Willhite says. “Following the commandments will refresh your mind, giving you the tools you need to visualize your approach and take the correct steps to assure that your curly clients’ hair is cut, conditioned and styled to perfection.” 1 2 3 4 5 6 Indentifying Curl Patterns According to Willhite, there are four main types of curl patterns: loose and wavy (soft, less-defined waves approximately 2 inches wide that become curlier with length); curly (classic curls approximately 1 to 1½ inches wide with lots of volume); tight curly (a mixture of 1 inch curls throughout the hair); and kinky (ringlets that are Z-shaped when hair is stretched). Determining Texture Willhite identifies three of the most common curl textures: fine (mostly found on people with tight or kinky curls); medium (usually found on people with loose, curly and tight curls); and coarse (strands are thicker in diameter and are mostly found on hair with loose curls). Shampooing “It isn’t necessary to shampoo curly hair daily,” Willhite says. “The client’s curl pattern should dictate how often she should shampoo.” For clients with loose waves, Willhite advises washing hair two to three times a week; those with tight curls should also only shampoo one to two times a week; and kinky-curled girls should wash only one time per week. Conditioning Willhite stresses that it’s important for curly-haired clients not to skip the conditioning step when washing their hair. “Conditioning provides protection against heat-styling tools, sun damage and product buildup,” she says. Her tip to share with clients: “Leave 25 percent of the conditioner on the ends of the hair for extra protection and detangling.” Leave-in Conditioners On the days clients do not shampoo, Willhite recommends rinsing the hair with warm water and detangling with a leave-in conditioner. “Leave-in conditioners add moisture and vitamins to wet or dry curls and also fight frizz, she says. Styling Tips “Curly hair should ne be brushed,” Willhite says. “Brushes can tear or stretch fragile strands and on dry hair, brushing will separate and diffuse the curls, creating frizz.” Willhite also warns against over-handling curly hair, as touching curls as they dry disturbs the natural pattern and creates unwanted volume and flyaways. ✂ —Lotus Abrams
