American Salon March 2013 : Page 50
The storefront of Dermalogica’s new Learning Center in Scottsdale, AZ, encourages passing shoppers to drop in. Crossover Hit When Dermalogica opened its new 2,600-square-foot Learning Center in Scottsdale, AZ, it signaled a paradigm shift for the company’s dealers and devotees. No longer would education be separate from retailing; the new center gives space to both. Speaking to a crowd of 120 skincare professionals at the January grand opening, founder and owner Jane Wurwand explained that the company has always focused on demystifying skincare through education with an emphasis on practical results. Bringing clients into the space where professional therapists are trained seemed a logical extension of that philosophy. The location and design support the mission. Downtown Scottsdale is an upscale urban shopping district with a funky 50 American Salon March 2013 floor plan Dermalogica’s new Learning Center is the first of its kind: a hybrid that brings education, treatment and retailing together under the same roof. edge and lots of foot traffic. The graceful interior is the brainchild of Ron Evans, Dermalogica’s director of corporate development, who has designed all of the skincare brand’s retail spaces for the last 13 years. The glass-walled storefront beckons visitors into a 600-square-foot retail area that includes a Skin Bar for consultations and sampling as well as Dermalogica’s signature Face Mapping service. A table for MicroZone treatments is encased in a series of curved panels to provide a feeling of privacy while still allowing observation from outside. Whimsical touches, like the exposed ductwork painted in the brand’s signature blue and an Andy Warhol-inspired graphic panel depicting the Skin Hydrating Booster in shades of lime
American Salon staff
Dermalogica’s new Learning Center is the first of its kind: a hybrid that brings education, treatment and retailing together under the same roof.
When Dermalogica opened its new 2,600-square-foot Learning Center in Scottsdale, AZ, it signaled a paradigm shift for the company’s dealers and devotees. No longer would education be separate from retailing; the new center gives space to both. Speaking to a crowd of 120 skincare professionals at the January grand opening, founder and owner Jane Wurwand explained that the company has always focused on demystifying skincare through education with an emphasis on practical results. Bringing clients into the space where professional therapists are trained seemed a logical extension of that philosophy.
The location and design support the mission. Downtown Scottsdale is an upscale urban shopping district with a funky edge and lots of foot traffic. The graceful interior is the brainchild of Ron Evans, Dermalogica’s director of corporate development, who has designed all of the skincare brand’s retail spaces for the last 13 years. The glass-walled storefront beckons visitors into a 600-square-foot retail area that includes a Skin Bar for consultations and sampling as well as Dermalogica’s signature Face Mapping service. A table for MicroZone treatments is encased in a series of curved panels to provide a feeling of privacy while still allowing observation from outside. Whimsical touches, like the exposed ductwork painted in the brand’s signature blue and an Andy Warhol-inspired graphic panel depicting the Skin Hydrating Booster in shades of lime green and electric blue, make the space inviting.
The classroom, occupying the rear of the Learning Center, is separated by staggered dividers that create open spaces between the retail and training areas. For privacy while classes are in session, graphic panels descend from above to enclose the space, which includes six fully equipped treatment stations.
Wurwand says Dermalogica has been updating its educational programs to adapt to a changing student body, and the facilities must follow suit. “We’ve got this new generation who is very comfortable with technology,” she explains. To meet the needs of these students, the environment includes high-tech touches, like the classroom smart board that gives educators the ability to send lecture notes directly to students’ tablets, cell phones
The Scottsdale Learning Center, officially opened in January, is the pilot project for an ongoing metamorphosis that will eventually encompass almost all of Dermalogica’s U.S. education centers. Of the 18 currently in operation, 15 will become hybrid Learning Centers over the next few years, as existing leases expire. ✂ —Karen Ford
Aloxxi’s new styling products are packed with powerhouse ingredients to protect color-treated hair from damage.
Aloxxi, known for its Kosher and animal rights-friendly haircare line, launched four new innovative styling products to repair, treat and style locks. Featuring Aloxxi’s ColourCare complex, a blend of 10 powerful antioxidants specially formulated for color-treated hair, the products join the brand’s existing Flexible Hairspray. Aloxxi Essential 7 Restorative Hair Serum utilizes a mixture of seven botanical oils—olive, walnut, jojoba, grapeseed, clary sage, geranium and sunflower seed—that provide vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. For healthy hair with extra volume, the brand added Thickening Serum, with apple stem cells rich in phyto-nutrients and proteins that protect color-treated hair against environmental stressors, and Weightless Styling Gelee, with lime and olive leaf extracts for long-lasting support and strength. “Many volumizing products swell the hair cuticle, creating an opportunity for color to be washed away,” says Kim Donovan, Aloxxi marketing director. “Combining apple stem cell technology and the ColourCare complex helps protect the hair by preventing the cuticle from opening and exposing delicate color molecules.” To round out the collection, Thermal Styling Spray keeps hair looking vibrant and healthy, even with repeat heat styling up to 450 degrees. This weightless spray can be used on damp or dry hair and layered with other products for damage-free styling. aloxxi.com —J.B.
Eight brand-new products you just have to check out
Bumble and bumble
Bumble and bumble introduced two new products to its Thickening line: Thickening Full Form Mousse for a healthy bounce and Thickening Crème Contour (seen here). This pliable shaping cream structures and texturizes all hair types. bumbleandbumble.com
ORIBE HAIR CARE
A light misting of Côte d’Azur, new from Oribe Hair Care, refreshes hair with the brand’s signature fragrance. In addition, the product instantly neutralizes odors, eliminates static and protects hair from UV damage. oribe.com
Sam Villa’s new Signature Series Razor features a rotating handle for less stress on the wrist while cutting. To achieve a range of styles, it also includes three interchangeable blades: straight, texturizing and blending. samvilla.com
Designed to clean, moisturize and protect hair in one step, Intelligent Nutrients’ new Pureluxe Shampoo is a rich conditioning formula that’s a perfect all-in-one treatment for fine hair. It also doubles as shaving cream for men and women. intelligentnutrients.com
For clients with sensitive skin, as well as those who have rosacea, try Dermalogica UltraSmoothing Eye Serum. Lightweight and firming, it targets signs of aging, reduces puffiness and soothes the delicate skin around the eye with botanicals. dermalogica.com
Redken Control Addict 28 provides the strongest workable hold for hairstyles that lasts for 24 hours and leaves hair with a satin finish. The fast-drying formula contains antioxidants to protect hair from environmental stressors. redken.com
The new Maven Professional Hair Clipper from Andis sports a blue and black design and includes an adjustable blade and six attachment combs ranging from 1/8 inch to 1 inch. The whisper-quiet motor powers through the day without overheating. andis.com
SHE BY SO.CAP.USA
For longer, fuller hair, SHE by SO.CAP.USA introduced a new Easy-One Clip-In Extension made of 100 percent human hair that can be secured with three clips. The 18- to 20-inch wefts come in 23 shades including reds, blondes and brunettes. socapusa.com
Repair KitStressed tresses can find relief with Zotos Professional’s new macadamia oil-infused haircare line.
A well-rounded, nutrient-rich diet is key to maintaining good health—and the same is true for taking care of the hair. New from Zotos Professional is Hairtrition, a line of haircare products made with natural macadamia oil to heal and nourish dry, damaged hair and reduce breakage. Macadamia Oil Damage Recovery Shampoo gently cleanses hair and instantly strengthens and reduces breakage, while the conditioner enhances the reparative effect. The final component, Macadamia Oil Damage Recovery Healing Oil is a lightweight, nongreasy formula that instantly adds shine and delivers intense nourishment to restore hair health. In addition to macadamia oil, each product contains a powerful blend of six nutrients: antioxidant-rich raspberry extract helps protect hair from external stressors; silk amino acids strengthen the cuticle and shaft from the inside out; the omega-6 fatty acids in flaxseed oil provide hair with a radiant, healthy sheen; moringa oil, with the highest protein ratio of any plant, is rich in antioxidants, fatty acids and phyto-nutrients to lessen breakage; soybean extract, which contains protein and calcium, repairs and moisturizes locks; and a vitamin B5, C and E complex replenishes and deeply conditions hair. “Macadamia oil is one of just a few plant oils rich in palmitoleic acid,” says Cindy Moser, Zotos group manager of research and development. “This unique oil is amazingly and deeply nourishing to the hair while remaining quick to absorb and extraordinarily lightweight.” zotos.com —K.H.
The Heat is On
There’s no better way to rejuvenate winter-weary skin than with a megadose of TLC. Enter the elegant Bon Vivant Collagen Body Candle collection from Beverly Hills, CA, skincare guru Dino Morra and actress Rena Sofer, which doubles as a hydrating body treatment. Available in three scents—Blood Orange and Baltic Amber; Peony White Flower and Tangerine; and Vanilla, Indonesian Wood and Cocoa—the candles are enriched with vegetable collagen, vitamin E, and black licorice and sunflower extracts that nourish the skin. “Once the candle is lit, allowed to burn for 10 minutes, extinguished and then cooled, a small spatula can be used to remove the emollient and apply it directly to dry skin for instant and intense hydration,” Morra says. dinomorra.com —K.D.
One of the biggest challenges beauty pros face in salons is trying to achieve great color results under bad lighting conditions. Thankfully, that’s about to change with the launch of Peter Millard Salon Lighting. After years of searching for the right bulb, Millard, an author and designer who focuses on retail spaces in the beauty industry, partnered with LED experts to create an affordable tool that not only produces clear, clean light, but that also can be easily installed in tracks and ceiling fixtures, which are available in stores like Home Depot or Lowe’s. “The lighting is beautiful and tells the truth when it comes to color,” says Pureology Colour Ambassador Ruth Roche, one of nine artists from the United States and United Kingdom who tested the technology. beautysalonlighting.com —K.D.
Featuring an array of vibrant coppers and luminescent golds, Copper Envy is the latest color collection from Redken. The eight new hues are available in Shades EQ Cream, an equalizing and conditioning demipermanent haircolor, and Chromatics, an ammonia-free permanent color. Six copper/gold, copper/red and gold/copper colors are available for Chromatics, while Shades EQ Cream features two copper/reds: Firecracker and Candle Flame. Redken Creative Consultant for Color Tracey Cunningham uses the new range of color for her star clients including actress Bryce Dallas Howard. Copper Envy formulas are available from the Style Station mobile app. redken.com —K.H.
Bold haircolor sets the tone for this elaborate coif from the Gooseberry Creative Team’s Orange collection. Taking their cue from the catwalks, the artists used a blood orange shade as an under color, then enhanced the hair’s top section with an orange hue. “This works really well with the high bun, giving the hair added dimension,” says team member Lisa Butler. To finish the look, Shu Uemura Fiber Lift was applied from the roots to tips for volume before it was mixed with Extreme Urushi to achieve hold and smoothness. After blow-drying, the team pulled the hair back into a high, tight ponytail before massaging the scalp to loosen strands for a softer look. “We then backcombed small sections to give the hair more structure and density before bringing it forward over the ponytail and wrapping it in a round shape to amplify texture,” Butler says. —K.D.
Product Club’s new Pop-Up Foil Dispenser is a must-have for every colorist. The acrylic dispenser, invented by St. Louis salon owner Christopher Moran, holds the brand’s Ready to Use, Pop-Up Foil Sheets and dispenses one sheet at a time for fumble-free use. It also features nonskid feet to keep the box squarely on a cart or station and a simple gray acrylic design. productclub.com —J.B.
This spring ombré is here to stay, but the popular color trend will be taking on a more natural appearance according to celebrity colorist Joel Warren of Warren-Tricomi Salons, which has several locations on the East Coast as well as Los Angeles. “Instead of the noticeable distinction between the two-toned colors, the look for spring is a gradual transition to the lighter shade,” says Warren, who points to celebs like Whitney Port, Jessica Biel and personal client Jessica Alba as best showcasing this color trend. To avoid the harsh line of distinction between the darker roots and lighter tips of the hair, Warren, who uses L’Oréal Professionnel INOA color, recommends starting with foil highlights, avoiding the roots. Next, he advises using the balayage technique to add the lighter color to spots where the sun would hit and highlight the hair naturally. “Exceptional color should create movement and add texture and shine,” he says. “The best way to do that is by taking that extra step to hand-paint the highlights on.” —L.A.
Inspiration can sometimes come from unexpected places. Such is the case with Sebastian Professional’s latest collection, Urban Explorers. The body of work, created utilizing new travel sizes of Sebastian’s top styling and care essentials, draws from the culture, expression and streets of urban hot spots around the globe, transporting stylists on an international journey designed to spark creativity. “Fashion and style statements vary from country to country—even city to city—and serve as an endless source of inspiration for me,” says Sebastian Professional Stylist Design Team member Thomas Dunkin, who was inspired by Berlin’s eclectic mix of architecture to craft this look laden with rebellious texture. Here, he shares how to recreate it:
1. Begin by applying Sebastian Professional Cellophanes in Dark Brunette to cleansed, towel-dried hair, avoiding the scalp. Wrap the hair in a cap and place under heat for 15 to 20 minutes. Allow it to cool, then rinse.
2. Wash strands a second time with Penetraitt Shampoo and Conditioner before blow-drying them and using a flat iron to prepare a smooth texture.
3. Part the hair from ear to ear below the crown, then make two ponytails—one above the other—keeping ½ inch of separation between them.
4. After twisting and pinning the lower ponytail into an elongated bun, place a hair pad around it to create the supporting inner shape that will extend horizontally away from the head.
5. Place and distribute the hair from the second ponytail over the pad, creating a volumized shape below the crown.
6. Work a bit of Microweb Fiber Elastic Texture into strands to define and amplify the tactile appearance of the ponytail and choppy fringe.
✂ —Kelley Donahue
It’s time to gather up some flowers and embrace the lighter side of pretty with nails lacquered in eye-popping amethyst hues inspired by CND’s Lilac French Mani for Angel Sanchez’s spring 2013 collection. “Sanchez’s dynamic use of muted fabrics and rich color, including mustard yellows and jewel tones, allowed us to create a lilac color manicure that provides a modern accent to clothes with a formal edge,” says Roxanne Valinoti, CND education manager. To get a similar look, try CND Lilac Longing from the company’s 2013 spring Shellac collection, shimmery and elegant Julie from Zoya or the hyper-pigmented Lucky Lucky Lavender from OPI. cnd.com; opi.com; zoya.com —J.T.
Form follows function in ArteStile’s Classic Line of nail tools that includes scissors, tweezers and manicure sets. Each tool is handcrafted by small family businesses in Italy using the finest-grade surgical steel for easy sterilization and durability. Free from nickel, chrome and lead, they are gentle and especially suitable for clients with sensitive skin. The scissors feature perfectly aligned, hand-filed blades for precise cutting and the manicure set includes clippers and a file. Several festive enamel designs, including zebra (shown here), make a bright addition to any salon’s retail section. artestileusa.com —J.B.
The first thing guests notice about Costa Mesa, CA’s Lollipop Nail Studio is the aroma. “It doesn’t smell like a typical nail salon; we make our products with natural ingredients,” says co-owner Jackie Dalton. She opened Lollipop in September after her young daughter asked to have her nails painted, rousing her concerns about the chemicals in many salon supplies. Clients appreciate the healthy products, too, along with the clean, fume-free environment at Lollipop. Instead of whirlpool tubs, Lollipop utilizes disposable plastic footbath liners; tools are sterilized using a chemical-free method; Zoya and other polishes without toluene, DBP and formaldehyde are in stock; and the signature products contain natural ingredients like raw sugar. “We’re here to inform clients about natural options and give them a fresh, new experience,” Dalton says. —K.H.
OPI brings the fantastical world of Disney’s Oz the Great and Powerful (2013) to salons with its new, limited-edition collection of nail polish shades. The set consists of glitzy Lights of Emerald City, When Monkeys Fly! (seen here) and Which is Witch? that are packed with iridescent confetti; soft neutrals Don’t Burst My Bubble (seen here), Glints of Glinda and I Theodora You; and What Wizardry is This?, which features Liquid Sand technology for a matte finish with a touch of sparkle. opi.com —J.B.
For the Boys
Companies offer products specifically designed to tackle men’s skin to provide nourishment and protection.
When working with male clients, it’s important for estheticians to be aware that men’s skin differs from women’s. “A man’s skin has denser collagen than a woman’s; it’s rougher in texture and slightly more hydrated,” says Annet King, director of global education for Dermalogica. Androgens contribute to men’s skin being nearly 25 percent thicker than that of women’s, however it thins gradually with age, whereas women’s skin thickness remains constant until the age of 50. To address men’s needs and simultaneously battle clients’ skin frustrations, King suggests coupling a skincare and shaving regimen, noting that Dermalogica’s line of shaving products also acts as a skincare system that aids in exfoliation and cleansing. For eye-area wrinkles, King suggests using Dermalogica’s new UltraSmoothing Eye Serum that functions both as an anti-aging and soothing treatment.
EmerginC also takes on aging with its Men’s Post-Shave Reinforcer. The balm, designed to calm the skin, provides nourishment by employing key plant extracts such as aloe vera and Indian lotus, as well as antioxidants and anti-aging peptides.
Sun protection is likewise critical to maintaining men’s skin health. The multitasking Miracle Skin Transformer Men offers hydration and SPF 20 sunscreen, in addition to reducing redness and leaving skin with a matte finish. For care after exposure to harsh elements, Miracle Skin Transformer Heal Everything Balm is designed to calm irritated, sensitive skin. dermalogica.com; emerginc.com; miracleskintransformer.com —J.T.
Whether you’re making waves, smoothing out the curves or pumping up the volume, using heat to create style is easier than ever with these new and innovative thermal tools. —Karen Ford
Flat irons and curling irons are still the go-to tools for creating texture in the salon, but another type of iron is making a comeback. “Crimping irons are no longer a thing of the ’80s,” says Lucie Doughty, editorial director for Paul Mitchell. Today, she points out, crimping irons are being used to create quick texture in the salon, build structure for updos or add volume to everyday looks like ponytails.
The new Limited Edition Express Ion Crimp by Paul Mitchell Pro Tools, part of their Queen for a Day Prom collection, uses far-infrared heat and 1¼-inch cushioned ceramic plates to create a micro-crimping pattern for quick texture. paulmitchell.com
FHI Heat’s Elite Professional Series 1-inch Black Diamond Digital Hand Touch ceramic professional iron features an energy-efficient sleep mode and variable temperature control between 266 and 450 degrees, with a display that’s color-coded for various hair types. fhiheat.com
New this month, the STNY Spotlight Diamond 1-inch flat iron by SalonTech features diamond-coated plates that resist chemical damage and scratches and provide a smoother glide through hair. salontech.com
Hot Tools’ 1-inch Rainbow Gold curling iron, introduced last month, senses heat loss and begins restoring it immediately to maintain a constant temperature, while the styling surface distributes heat evenly. hottools.com
Sometimes you need a tool that goes above and beyond the call of duty. Whether it’s performing a specialized function or enabling the ability to multitask, these uniquely practical thermal tools expand creative horizons in ways others just can’t.
Easily switch out the four ceramic/tourmaline heads on the GKHair 4 In One Iron to create soft waves or corkscrew curls. This versatile tool uses negative ions and far-infrared technology to prevent damage and features a nonslip grip. gkhair.com
Keratin Complex’s Five-In-One Titanium Curling System features five interchangeable titanium barrels, including a unique Root Refiner that provides extra control for frizzy hair. keratincomplex.com
The Professional Ultra Press Comb from Andis straightens hair while maintaining its natural volume and body for a softer, more natural finish. It features a ceramic comb with a rounded edge opposite the teeth for creating flips or bends at the ends of hair and 20 precision heat settings up to 450 degrees. andis.com
The InStyler IQ rotating-barrel iron curls or straightens while adding body and shine. Recently introduced: Bristle Pods, interchangeable brush attachments made of durable nylon that can be used to customize the InStyler for fine, medium or coarse hair textures. instylerpro.com
A MIGHTY WIND “Far-infrared technology makes my job easier,” says Derek J, celebrity hairdresser and Belson Products educator. “It helps speed up drying time but won’t damage the hair because it dries from the inside out. The cuticle is sealed and hair is left shiny and soft without frizz.” Invest in a professional model; built for the kind of heavy use seen only in the salon, it will pay for itself over time.
The new TurboPower 318 Forte Ionic Dryer produces negative ions and far-infrared heat to close the cuticle layer and smooth hair surface. Its ergonomic, stay-cool handle is easy on hands and wrists. turbopowerinc.com
The TIGIPro Sessions Tools Blow Dryer offers a choice between negative ions for shine and reduced drying time and positive ions for texture and volume. It also features a locking cool-shot button. tigihaircare.com
Brazilian Heat’s 1875-watt Ion Salon AC Motor Dryer has a longer-lasting lightweight AC motor, an ionic generator to lessen damage while drying hair and far-infrared technology for faster drying. belsonproducts.com
Ensure your clients’ hair is the best it can be by keeping it protected from blow-drying and flat-ironing with these products specifically designed to take on the heat.
1. Aveda Brilliant Damage Control includes certified-organic chamomile for soothing the hair and scalp, as well as wheat proteins to defend strands against being overworked and stretched during heat styling; aveda.com. 2. Packed with keratin, anti-aging antioxidants and vitamins, Keratin Complex Lock Luster Nourishing Spray Conditioner replenishes moisture and restores health to all hair types after heat styling; keratincomplex.com. 3. Infused with argan and almond oils and vitamins A and E, the new Moroccanoil Heat Styling Protection shields hair from breakage and split ends while also delivering a natural, soft hold to locks; moroccanoil.com. 4. Biolage Thermal-Activating Spray from Matrix includes UV filters to guard hair from the sun’s heat, long after protecting strands from hot tools. Added bonus: The formula creates serious volume; matrix.com. 5. Containing rock crystal extract, Sebastian Professional Trilliant Thermal Protection and Sparkle Complex gently conditions hair and provides shine as it shields locks from the heat. Added styling polymers amp up the volume; sebastianprofessional.com. 6. Scruples Heat Up Styling & Finishing Thermal Spray is a heat-activated formula that protects hair from the environment and hot tools while delivering maximum style retention, volume and incredible shine; scrupleshaircare.com. 7. After just one blow-out, Redken Satinwear 02 Prepping Blow-dry Lotion transforms hair and delivers controlled, shiny smoothness with a weightless finish; redken.com. 8. The humidity-resistant KMS California Freeshape Hot Flex Spray responds to high temperatures to allow unlimited styling without damage, providing both shaping power and hold; kmscalifornia.com. 9. Oribe Hair Care Royal Blowout Heat Styling Spray is an ultralightweight blow-out spray with heat protection designed for creating an alluring soft and natural finish; oribe.com. 10. Schwarzkopf Professional Osis Flatliner smoothes curly and wavy hair, leaving it silky and frizz-free, and protects it up to 392 degrees; schwarzkopf-professional.com. 11. Designed specifically for color-treated hair, ColorProof Evolved Color Care HeatProof Anti-Frizz Blow Dry Crème leaves hair soft, glossy and vibrant with zero stickiness; colorproof.com. 12. Goldwell StyleSign Flat Marvel is a rich balm for protecting wavy and curly hair when straightening strands with an iron, withstanding temperatures up to 392 degrees; goldwell.com. 13. Organic Connect Thermal 2 Twenty from Organic Salon Systems will protect hair up to temperatures of 220 degrees while helping to create smooth, straight and glossy looks; organicsalonsystems
.com. 14. Along with heat protection, Paul Mitchell Hot Off the Press adds style memory for smoothing with a hot iron; paulmitchell.com. 15. Wella Professionals Thermal Image shields hair from heat damage while keeping strands cooler during flat-ironing; wella.com. ✂ —Jolene Turner
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