American Salon July 2013 : Page-54

THE SCISSOR First Look REVOLUTION HAS BEGUN. Beauty LaB Six products you just have to check out DerMalogica Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50 dermalogica.com Curves Ahead Matrix’s new approach to texturizing enables stylists to easily create customized curls. here’s good news for clients who covet flowing waves like those popularized by the Duchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton and Hollywood A-lister Jennifer Lopez. This month, Matrix rolls out its new Opti-Effects Neutral pH Dual Wave System, an in-salon texturizing service that delivers natural-looking results sans damage and residual odor. Available in three strengths—Normal, Resistant and Sensitized—for every hair type, Opti-Effects’s color-safe formulas are also enriched with breakthrough technology. In addition to a neutral pH Waving Activator lotion that helps eliminate over-swelling of the hair’s outer cuticle layer for dazzling shine and true-to-rod curls, the system also contains a Wave Customizer that’s fortified with ceramides, four amino acids to strengthen the hair and a special cationic agent that enhances softness. When applied before the neutralizing process, the interim acidic rinse dramatically reduces hair’s pH level to buffer the rebonding process. “With the Wave Customizer, the curl is elongated and more supple for a modern wave pattern,” says Matrix Artistic Educator Robert Santana. “It can be applied to all rods or select ones to create a truly custom wave-design for each client.” matrix.com —K.D. T inDie hair Shampoo_Bodywash #cleansweep myindiehair.com Brazilian Blowout Açai Flexible Molding Clay Wax brazilianblowout .com tonDeo The Rotation Free Ring shears tondeousa.com Morgan taylor Professional nail lacquer No Way Rosé morgantaylorlacquer .com This month use coupon code AS40 for $40 off your online order! KamisoriShears.com 1-866-387-4306 Matrix Biolage Exquisite Oil Monoi matrix.com

In Studio

American Salon staff

First Look<br /> Curves Ahead<br /> <br /> Matrix’s new approach to texturizing enables stylists to easily create customized curls. <br /> There’s good news for clients who covet flowing waves like those popularized by the Duchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton and Hollywood A-lister Jennifer Lopez. This month, Matrix rolls out its new Opti-Effects Neutral pH Dual Wave System, an in-salon texturizing service that delivers natural-looking results sans damage and residual odor. <br /> Available in three strengths—Normal, Resistant and Sensitized—for every hair type, Opti-Effects’s color-safe formulas are also enriched with breakthrough technology. In addition to a neutral pH Waving Activator lotion that helps eliminate over-swelling of the hair’s outer cuticle layer for dazzling shine and true-to-rod curls, the system also contains a Wave Customizer that’s fortified with ceramides, four amino acids to strengthen the hair and a special cationic agent that enhances softness. When applied before the neutralizing process, the interim acidic rinse dramatically reduces hair’s pH level to buffer the rebonding process. “With the Wave Customizer, the curl is elongated and more supple for a modern wave pattern,” says Matrix Artistic Educator Robert Santana. “It can be applied to all rods or select ones to create a truly custom wave-design for each client.” matrix.com —K.D.<br /> <br /> Beauty Lab<br /> <br /> Six products you just have to check out<br /> <br /> Dermalogica <br /> Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50 dermalogica.com<br /> <br /> indie hair <br /> Shampoo_Bodywash #cleansweep <br /> myindiehair.com<br /> <br /> Brazilian Blowout <br /> Açai Flexible Molding Clay Wax brazilianblowout .com<br /> <br /> Tondeo <br /> The Rotation Free Ring shears tondeousa.com<br /> <br /> Morgan Taylor Professional nail lacquer<br /> No Way Rosé <br /> morgantaylorlacquer<br /> .com<br /> <br /> Matrix <br /> Biolage Exquisite Oil Monoi <br /> matrix.com<br /> <br /> Wave Length<br /> Curly girls, rejoice; Ouidad promises to preserve coils while protecting hue with its new Color Sense line. The sulfate-free triple threat, including Color Preserving Shampoo, Color Preserving Conditioner (seen here) and Shine Boosting Color Extender, enhances glossiness and shields locks from harmful UV rays with the Color Lock complex of beta-carotene and lycopene. The shampoo aims to gently remove mineral deposits and product buildup that can cause color fading while the conditioner works to replenish moisture with apricot oil and honey to give hair a healthy look and feel. The Shine Boosting Color Extender, a weekly rinse-out treatment, boasts a blend of crambe abyssinica and apricot seed oils to maintain true tones and enhance luster. ouidad.com —J.B.<br /> <br /> Serve and Protect<br /> To achieve long-lasting shaped styles on color-treated hair, ColorProof Evolved Color Care introduces PowerSculpt Hard Hold Gel. Use this heavy-duty gel on damp hair to create defined styles that flex and stretch throughout the day without breaking or flaking. Certified organic bamboo strengthens locks and patented ingredients Chromaveil, a UV absorber derived from corn, and Heliogenol, an antioxidant from sunflowers, protect against UVA and UVB rays to prevent color fade. Keep the standard-sized tube in stock or rely on the 1 ounce travel size for go-anywhere molded looks. colorproof.com —J.B.<br /> <br /> new heights<br /> <br /> Pureology’s Pure Volume system is better than ever, now with four super-concentrated products that work together to cleanse, thicken and replenish fine, color-treated hair. The line’s original trio, comprising ZeroSulfate Shampoo, Condition and Blow Dry Amplifier, received upgrades to their lightweight formulas—including new ingredients wheat protein and eucalyptus extracts—for maximum strand plumping, buildup removal, moisture retention and color protection via the AntiFadeComplex. New to the reformulated bunch is Pure Volume Instant Levitation Mist, a thermal protective spray that stimulates the scalp for root lift and extra volume. As a bonus, enhancing its environmentally friendly efforts, Pureology reduced the amount of cardboard used in the packaging. pureology.com —J.B.<br /> <br /> Workshop<br /> Country Girl<br /> Aveda’s newest body of work, Heart Lands, harkens back to a simpler time when handcrafting was a way of life. “The collection is punctuated by unfussy hairstyles with loose ends, cuts as smooth as corn silks, hues that mirror the setting sun, and makeup that’s as lush and varied as a bushel of heirloom tomatoes,” says Aveda Creative Director Antoinette Beenders. Here, Ian Michael Black, Aveda artistic director for hair color, details how to create one of the portfolio’s brilliant auburn looks.<br /> 1. After dividing the hair into radial sections (illustrated here), take medium-density, medium-effect weaves, placing the foils as shown. In the first weave, apply Formula A from scalp-to-ends, feathering the color toward the scalp. In the second weave, apply Formula B from the mid-lengths to the ends, feathering the color 1½ to 2 inches away from the scalp. Continue alternating Formulas A and B in each radial section as noted.<br /> 2. When the foils are complete, apply Formula C to the remaining hair. <br /> 3. Process, rinse, shampoo and perform a Moisture Botanical Therapy Hair Treatment.<br /> 4. To style, prep strands with Pure Abundance Style-Prep, then apply Volumizing Tonic before creating three traditional panel sections.<br /> 5. Beginning at the nape, perform a round-brush hard set, rolling subsections into on-base curls and securing with clips. <br /> 6. Continue the process until all the hair is set except for the fringe. Once cool, remove the clips and brush through the curls. <br /> 7. Using a fine-tooth comb, backcomb horizontal subsections at the crown to create a cushion. Work toward the fringe, but avoid backcombing it or the sides. <br /> 8. Mist the backcombed sections with Air Control Hair Spray before smoothing with a Mason Pearson brush and pinning sections at the crown for volume. <br /> 9. Finish with Air Control Hair Spray for staying power.<br /> ✂ —Kelley Donahue<br /> <br /> Face Value<br /> <br /> Between Visits<br /> Skincare companies have developed effective masks to take on all of your clients’ at-home skincare needs.<br /> <br /> Having clear, hydrated and healthy skin can do wonders for one’s self-esteem. In client communications, you likely see skin woes from breakouts to over-dry skin, and clients want solutions to maintain a beautiful complexion in between facials. Aside from providing daily skincare products, it’s important to prescribe the right weekly mask to benefit the skin and provide clients with a sense of control. The following masks meet nearly every skincare need.<br /> For dry skin, Dermalogica’s Skin Hydrating Masque includes calming fruit and botanical extracts, antioxidant vitamins C and E for improving smoothness, and pro-vitamin B5 for ultimate moisture. For a more intense treatment of antioxidants, the brand offers the MultiVitamin Power Recovery Masque.<br /> Clients who desire to maintain their already healthy skin are good candidates for the Creamy Balancing Mask from Timeless By Pevonia Professional Collection. Designed for all skin types, the ingredient list includes carrot oil to hydrate and combat the loss of muscle tissue; a vitamin B5 complex that strengthens skin; and peach and green apple for a brightening effect.<br /> Perfect for acne-prone clients, the Hydra Medic Sea Mud Perfecting Mask from Repêchage gently and deeply cleans pores. Its blend of ingredients aims to clear up and refine skin, and absorb sebum with Kaolin Clay and an anti-bacterial mineral-derived mixture. Additionally, the mask features Eucalyptus Oil, not just for its reinvigorating scent, but also for its antiseptic qualities.<br /> Tackling skin discoloration and pigmentation issues, Ofra Cosmetic Laboratories’ Whitening Mask is formulated specifically to lighten spots and its gentle antioxidant formula is designed to battle the appearance of lines. dermalogica.com; ofracosmetics.com; pevonia<br /> .com; repechage.com —J.T.<br /> <br /> Nail File<br /> Super Natural<br /> All tips and toes deserve safe, simple pampering and Tata Harper, skincare professional, has teamed up with TenOverTen New York City nail salons for the Tata Harper All Natural Manicure and All Natural Pedicure. Featuring nontoxic polishes, including the salon’s own line, and Harper’s namesake natural skincare products, the service begins by exfoliating hands and feet with the Regenerating Cleanser that’s packed with apricot seed kernels and essential oils to ease congestion. Next, the Resurfacing Mask featuring pink clay, beet extracts, and witch hazel is applied to detoxify and hydrate skin. To finish: a massage with the Body Oil and a polish with a luxe variety of lacquers. tataharperskincare.com; tenoverten.com —J.B.<br /> <br /> House of Mouse <br /> Decorate clients’ nails with chic hues inspired by the catwalks with OPI’s new limited-edition lacquers devoted to the high-fashion side of Mickey Mouse’s main squeeze. The Couture de Minnie collection comprises five polishes in saturated pinks and reds, including Innie Minnie Mighty Bow (seen here). In addition to three crème lacquers and one glitter shade, Magazine Cover Mouse joins the bunch as a strawberry-hued Liquid Sand polish that gives nails a matte finish. The new Minnie Mouse line extends the original Vintage Minnie collection launched spring 2012. opi.com —J.B.<br /> <br /> ON THE DOUBLE<br /> As much as salon owners would like to bring back the days of long, leisurely salon visits, it’s neither their reality nor that of clients. Enter Fix Beauty Bar, opened September 2012, a novel creation by Michelle Breskin and Karol Markowicz that delivers simultaneous blowouts and nail services for busy New Yorkers in the Upper East Side. Select any style blowout and add a manicure and waterless pedicure in just 60 New York minutes while remaining in the same chair. “It’s somewhere people go to relax and have an hour to themselves,” Markowicz says. Perks are plentiful; technicians use a wide array of designer polishes and offer guests a choice of wine or bubbly no matter what hour of the day. This timesaving salon keeps as busy as its clients, hosting private parties and two additional Manhattan locations and pop-up shops in the Hamptons, NY, on the horizon. —J.B.<br /> <br /> Haute as the Sun<br /> Help clients embrace the summer’s radiance by glazing tips and toes with sun-inspired nail polish hues. Think: Carolina Herrera’s vivid orange dresses and Oscar de la Renta’s yellow ensembles. Top contenders include CND Shellac Lobster Roll, a classic red-orange shade; OPI’s lemony The It Color; and fiery and sparkling Beatrix by Zoya. cnd<br /> .com; opi.com; zoya.com —K.H.<br /> <br /> <br /> Smooth Like Silk<br /> Check out the hottest in-salon retexturizing treatments designed to tame all types of manes.<br /> <br /> Peter Coppola Keratin Concept<br /> Keratin and Ceramide Formaldehyde-Free and Aldehyde-Free Treatment is designed to smooth hair while providing volume and an anti-aging boost. It takes two to three hours and lasts three months. petercoppola.com<br /> <br /> Paul Mitchell<br /> Awapuhi Wild Ginger KeraTriplex 2-Step Repair Treatment is fortified with KeraTriplex, a blend of proteins that fill damaged sites on the hair shaft, smoothing ruffled cuticles and taming frizz. The 10-minute in-salon service improves shine and silkiness. paulmitchell.com<br /> <br /> Aveda <br /> Smooth Infusion Retexturizing System includes organic ylang ylang to permanently straighten hair while jojoba oil, meadowfoam seed oil and coconut-derived conditioners protect hair during processing. aveda.com<br /> <br /> Yuko <br /> Hair Straightening <br /> utilizes thio-based solutions to leave hair pin-straight without damage and can be used on any hair type. The service takes two to three hours. yuko-usa.com<br /> <br /> Brazilian Blowout<br /> Professional Smoothing Solution takes just 90 minutes and creates a protective protein layer around the hair shaft, smoothing and flattening the cuticle to eliminate frizz. brazilianblowout.com<br /> <br /> Keratin Complex<br /> Natural Keratin Smoothing Treatment seals hydrolyzed keratin into the cuticle with a flat-iron to relax the hair’s subcuticle layer for shiny smoothness. It takes two to three hours and lasts five months. keratincomplex.com<br /> <br /> Tibolli<br /> Trioxxy Hair Treatment delivers ingredients such as coconut derivatives, jojoba oils and protein enzymes into the cuticle to instantly hydrate hair to improve texture, create shine and prevent the production of curls. tibolli.com<br /> <br /> Organic Salon Systems <br /> Organic Curl Systems is free of ammonia and contains Cysteamin HCL to either perm, relax or straighten hair. Plant amino acids, wheat and soy protein condition strands. organicsalon<br /> systems.com<br /> <br /> Daily Defense<br /> These at-home stylers are geared to keep tresses smooth and frizz-free all day, any day<br /> FROM LEFT: Keune Haircosmetics Straight Cream, keune.com; Macadamia Natural Oil Healing Oil Spray, macadamiahair.com; ColorProof Evolved Color Care HeatProof Anti-Frizz Blow Dry Creme, colorproof.com; TIGI Hair Reborn Treatment of Smoothing, tigihairreborn.com; Schwarzkopf Professional OSIS+ Soft Loop Curls, schwarzkopf-professional.com; Moroccanoil Frizz Control, moroccanoil.com; Redken Smooth Lock Heat Glide, redken.com; Pureology Cuticle Polisher, pureology.com; Aloxxi Renew Keratin Treatment, aloxxi.com; Agadir Argan Oil Spray Treatment, agadirint.com; JKS International Make It Straight, jksusa.com

Kamisori Shears

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